Links to the products i used bellow
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My airbrushes and setup:
1BAR(20PSI) of air pressure through the gun.
A Spray booth i recommend:
The booth i made myself:
General Tools: http://amzn.to/2xGdDOB
Tape: http://amzn.to/2xGHWQk http://amzn.to/2yplZZE http://amzn.to/2ypqUKa http://amzn.to/2yp9IEH
Tape with plastic sheet: http://amzn.to/2hIy82f
Knife: http://amzn.to/2xGMvz4 http://amzn.to/2ypq3sT
Cutting Mat: http://amzn.to/2znJ0dT
Clearparts glue: http://amzn.to/2zpOJzN
CA Gleu: http://amzn.to/2zb0jhg
Plastic Cement: http://amzn.to/2za8KJX
Decals Solutions: http://amzn.to/2ylIPzQ http://amzn.to/2ypuRP7
Panelline scriber: http://amzn.to/2hGDElS
permanent markers: http://amzn.to/2zptYoa http://amzn.to/2z8WREd
Sanding sponges: http://amzn.to/2xGMKtY
Spray stand: http://amzn.to/2z9Y2D9
Parts holders: http://amzn.to/2ypbjtT
Panelline accent color: http://amzn.to/2xGB7OA
In my video's I'm showing all sorts of tips and trick about model car building. I do tutorials( how to's ),model kit builds,unboxing reviews and all sorts of other scale model related stuff.
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3:35 tip: don't just cut everything out. it's important to know what part you need because maybe the part that you used were reversed.... then if it's glued on and you see that you did it wrong you'll have a problem.....
(This is my advice, the way I do it. I'm not trying to be a pro.)
What is the process for painting and gluing the model? I want to paint the parts of the engine before assembly because it is too sloppy to paint them after assembly, but the Tamiya Extra thin just makes a mess and does not bond painted parts.
Ya my store has a ton of car, military, plane kits along with a few stark trek kits and gunpla kits (which I mostly build anyways)
So these car kits you don't need a screwdriver? Wew.... I was worried it would be too complicated
Idk how I feel like painting the actual cover of the entire car though.
Yeah, starting off with harder kits always winds up being an uphill battle all the way. One suggestion I would make is to, if possible, set that kit aside for a while and pick up a couple of easier, cheaper kits; there are two reasons I suggest this; 1) Cheaper kits don't hurt as much if you make mistakes; and 2) Once you've completed a couple of kits, you'll have some idea of the possible hiccups you might encounter and this will give you a lot more confidence which will make that expensive, harder kit seem a lot less daunting. If that's not an option, then I would suggest just moving slowly on the harder kit; do *a lot* of dry fitting (testing where pieces go before applying any sort of adhesive), take frequent breaks, especially if you begin to get tired/frustrated because you're more likely to make mistakes during those moments and just try to learn everything you can from each step of the process. I can't guarantee that the kit will come out great, but you *will* learn a lot and it will help you in moving forward with the hobby.
Just bought my first kit and my plan was to only buy the kit for now, keep it somewhat cheap, try choose between Revell, Tamiya and AMT and stay away from Nissan’s because I will probably make a mistake. After some thought I was between a $45 Fujimi R32, a $45 Revell 918 and a $30 Tamiya MX-5. The mx-5 was exactly what I was looking for, cheap, top quality, 1:24 scale (all 3 options where 1:24) and something I love but not something I’d be devastated if I broke. I was about to buy the MX-5 then I stupidly put it down and bought the R32. Super excited though just hope it turns out good
Nice video on explaining the steps and glues to use on the different types of parts. It was good and informative. Only one thing that was a little distracting to me about the video was your blocky way of speaking. You would pause between each word as you trie to annunciate as best you could but it can be a little distracting and doesn’t flow. Just speak without all of the pauses in between each and every word and it will certainly improve the overall quality of your videos.
This is possible without a kit right? a long time ago probably around 2008 or something i saw this video where the person was building the body with some sort of plastic/plaster stuff and some sort of glue that dried and hardened. This seems much much simpler but i believe most people don't do it for the simplicity but for the process and the fun in making something.
RoyToh Does Roblox And More me too lol,i just randomly thought,i want to try something different instead of just playing watch dogs 2 and fallout 4,so I thought:how about a model car? I love cars and love building “like my city on fallout 4 check out video on my channel” so then i started watching model car building videos and i really want to build a lot now lol
Hello Sir, the sucess is unbelieveable! Thank you for your answer. And please go on with your videos. Thank for your effort. To you and to all viewers have a great Christmastime 2017 and a successful and healthy 2018
Hello Sir, your videos are really great. Please how are you making these videos? Which camera are you using? Are you using a reflex camera or did you use a camcorder? How did you place the camera? It looks like it is always in your face. But then you have no possibility to do such a fantastic job. It would be very nice to hear from you. Thanks a lot for your time.
i guess you can wet-sand it with 400, 600, 800, then 1000, 1200, 1500, 1800, and keep wet sanding it till you reach 2500 then use paint polisher and buff it then wax it, it worked with a plastic clear part i have
It's basically a really strong adhesive, I've used it a lot during woodworking.
Are there any alternative types of glue I could use that I can find around the house, instead of the ones you mentioned in the video?
I am building my second model ever, my first car model. I had no idea about the problem with chrome parts and plastic cement, I'm glad I found this video before building! also, I have a tube of some type of testor's plastic cement, it is in a red tube and is thick and can leave a thing spider Web like string behind when using. do you know the type I am referring to? I was wondering when it would be appropriate to use and when not to use it on certain parts.
Please do an intermediate build, but with basic tools. No airbrush but cans, no special clear glue but woodglue. Stuff like that. A clean build but with basic investment.
So that the guys with small allowance can do a pretty good build too. Would love to see that. Voor de rest doe je het super ;) Al veel bijgeleerd.
The Scalemodeling Channel I use a 4 pack of liquid super glue that I get from wal-mart and it works pretty well! The best part is that it’s only $1.50! And I can build 5-6 complete models with it! I also am able to get 5-10 builds with a basic spray can! And believe it or not it actually comes out quite nice! Also you can get a can of spray paint for a dollar at wal-mart or Lowe’s or Home Depot!
I will do one in the future once i have cleared all the commission work out of the way. Though keep in mind, spray cans are not cheap either if you have to buy 5 every build you do. The run out fast and can mostly only be used for 1 maybe 1,5 builds. Wood glue is pretty much just as cheap or expensive as the CA glue i use in these videos. so is the cement.
Though they are valid points. I also do have 2 video series(old ones) on using spray cans ;)
Thank you so much! I have ruined multiple models by getting part way through the build and either loosing parts or just not having the painting skills. The paint always runs because I try to apply too much in one coat.
I'm a beginner and I'm having a lot of trouble when trying to paint and clear coat. It results in a very rough and not shining look, very weird. Btw, I airbrush with tamiya acrylics, clear x22 and tamiya x20a thinner What I'm possibly doing wrong ?
Gustavo Chanchencow hi, buddy! I had the same problem for years. X-22 isn't the best but you can thin it down almost to water consistency, then spray it from close, moving the airbrush fast from side to side. Keep the coat wet, but don't puddle! Try on plastic spoon first!
In my eyes first or 10th build, you must try painting anyway. It is very important step.By building model without painting it, you cant really learn a lot... Unpainted model looks like cheap toy, and if you fail painting it will not look any worse. Models aren't cheap, so why waste a kit? Why not to use all opportunities it gives? Its better avoid getting cutting pad, snippers fancy knives, and get 1 can of paint maybe, if you see that you enjoy hobby, than you can invest in tools for future projects. I am not criticizing this current video, just sharing my point of view on this "first model kit" topic :)
Simple models my idea of a first kit is to paint, and glue. I didn't need any knives or spruce cutters or a can of paint for my first one. The way to get better is to 1: practice 2: research about the topic 3: apply research 4(a): continue to practice new skill 4(b) try again. That's how I got better
Leuk idee Tom! Ik weet dat je er nog een paar hebt. Misschien leuk de zelfde kit maar dan poging 2 beetje met de kwast of met een spuitbus.
En uiteindelijk ook een versie "Tom style" gebouwd. Misschien ook leuk met een motorfiets of boot. Hier ben ook ik benieuwd naar.....
hi, about the CA glue, Zap make the Plasti-zap, that one is designed to work with plastic models, it glues ABS and vinyl too and it is said does not fog clear parts, I have to test it... but it is very good stuff!, zap also does the Poly-ZAP wich is repported to work realy well with clear parts.
I think this series is a great idea. First time builders can easily become overwhelmed by looking at the amount of experienced detailing on YouTube. This is a great way to bring first timers and those just starting out more into the hobby
Thank you for this video. I am 40 years old and just starting my first model ever. The painting has been the most difficult part for me so I am really looking forward to see how you paint without the use of an airbrush.
You can do a decent job with a rattle can, but it takes patience. There really is no substitute for an airbrush, especially for building cars. Military models you can get away without one a little easier, but it is worth the investment.
Kyle Martin level 3 has more intricate detail and smaller parts, level 2 is almost the same but it has less detail which is barely noticeable but it also doesn't have as many smaller parts, there is also extra things you may have to do for level three, for example, cutting the body for something to fit properly.
For towns, each building is described, along with what and who can you can talk to, who to buy skills from, and what quests are available. For the outlying areas, the dungeons are listed.
Dungeon maps are not given -- they would be too extensive to fit easily into a web page and the automapping in the game is excellent. Also, every dungeon should be explored completely to get all of the loot, but only puzzles and hidden locations are described. I also skip most of the fighting because it isnt something that you can easily describe, nor does it matter in most places, except that you have to survive it. I do list the creatures that you will encounter in a dungeon or grid location to give you an idea of how difficult the location is.
Stores are listed with a "buy" and "sell". The "buy" value is multiplied by the items value to determine the price you have to pay for it. The "sell" value is divided by the items value to determine the price you can sell it to the store for. Higher is always worse, and a "buy" or "sell" of 1 means that you are buying/selling an item at cost.
Every location has a "reset" timer. This starts when you first enter the area, and after it "goes off", the entire grid square resets: monsters reappear and random treasure is replaced. Nonrandom treasure (including most stat-gaining liquids) is not replaced. All dungeons have a reset of 2 years (24 months), unless otherwise noted. Overland areas have reset times listed with their descriptions.
Artifacts are unique items that can be found. They come in two flavors: Minor artifacts are always benificial and have a value of 20000gp. Major artifacts always have a drawback, but their benificial powers are much stronger. They have a value of 30000gp. There are 15 minor and 15 major artifacts -- some of these artifacts are placed at specific locations; others are randomly generated.
Table of Contents.