SLIME AND JELLY
Let's dedicate this video to the King of satisfying hacks - the great and powerful Slime! : )
How to Make Butter Slime
1. Pour 8 ounces of your white glue in a bowl.
Tip: I like to buy the large gallon-size of Elmer’s Glue since it’s the most economical. It’s easy to pour and measure out your glue with measuring cups and you can use it to make lots of batches of slime!
2. Mix your baking soda in.
3. Add you water and mix thoroughly.
4. Add the baby oil and lotion and mix.
5. Add 1 tablespoon of contact lens solution and mix.
6. Pour the slime out on the table as it will be very sticky still. This is what you want since when you add your clay it will take the stickiness away.
Add a little amount of clay and fold over your slime and knead it into the slime. Keep kneading until your slime is colored and the clay is thoroughly mixed.
7. The more you knead the less sticky it should be until it feels like regular slime. You can now stretch and fold a few times and create your own swirl!
I hope you love this butter slime recipe as much as I do! You can also substitute the clay and add some cornstarch in for a similar consistency. We would recommend about 2-4 tablespoons of cornstarch.
How to Make Glow in the Dark Slime
1. Get a bowl to mix your slime ingredients in.
2. Empty your bottle of glow in the dark glue into the bowl. Try to squeeze out as much as you can from the bottle and let it drip out. Since it’s only 5 ounces if you do not pour out everything you’ll be left with a small batch of slime. We recommend doubling this recipe and using 2 bottles if you want a larger batch of slime.
Tip: Pour water that is called for in the recipe into the bottle and shake it. Then pour into your bowl to help get some of the extra glue out of the bottle.
3. Add your 1/4 tablespoon of baking soda and 2 tablespoons of water and mix thoroughly until the water is mixed in with the glue. If you want a stretchier slime you can add more water (up to 1/4 cup total).
4. Slowly add in your contact lens solution. Add in 1/2 tablespoon to start and then another 1/2 tablespoon. Add it in slowly and only as much as needed. Adding too much contact lens solution can make your slime hard and less stretchy.
Once you’ve mixed in the tablespoon take the slime out and start to knead it. It will be very sticky at this point and that is normal. Just keep kneading the glow in the dark slime until it is not sticky anymore. If you still find it very sticky, add a little bit of baby oil or lotion to your hands.
Reminder: your contact lens solution should contain boric acid or your slime will not form. We like this brand the best. See also our tips on How to Make Slime with Contact Solution.
5. Now you’ll need to “charge” your slime in light before it will glow in the dark. We recommend putting it in daylight if you can as the sun will be brighter than indoor lighting. If you have a bright indoor light that will work too. Make sure to spread the slime out flat when charging as it needs to be exposed to light on all areas for it glow.
This slime will last at least a week if stored in an air tight container or bag. We have found it usually will last longer. Just don’t let it sit out when not in use. We prefer to store our slime in a Ziploc bag since it is easy to press out all of the air from the bag.
We hope you have fun playing with this glow in the dark slime!
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2:20 *takes kids slime* *kid: comes back from school
Mom: uh oh *puts slime back*
Kid: omg my slime can't wait!
Kid: opens container sees hair in it
Kid: MOM WHAT HAPPENED TO MY SLIME!!!??
Mom: I THINK I BETTER *run*
For towns, each building is described, along with what and who can you can talk to, who to buy skills from, and what quests are available. For the outlying areas, the dungeons are listed.
Dungeon maps are not given -- they would be too extensive to fit easily into a web page and the automapping in the game is excellent. Also, every dungeon should be explored completely to get all of the loot, but only puzzles and hidden locations are described. I also skip most of the fighting because it isnt something that you can easily describe, nor does it matter in most places, except that you have to survive it. I do list the creatures that you will encounter in a dungeon or grid location to give you an idea of how difficult the location is.
Stores are listed with a "buy" and "sell". The "buy" value is multiplied by the items value to determine the price you have to pay for it. The "sell" value is divided by the items value to determine the price you can sell it to the store for. Higher is always worse, and a "buy" or "sell" of 1 means that you are buying/selling an item at cost.
Every location has a "reset" timer. This starts when you first enter the area, and after it "goes off", the entire grid square resets: monsters reappear and random treasure is replaced. Nonrandom treasure (including most stat-gaining liquids) is not replaced. All dungeons have a reset of 2 years (24 months), unless otherwise noted. Overland areas have reset times listed with their descriptions.
Artifacts are unique items that can be found. They come in two flavors: Minor artifacts are always benificial and have a value of 20000gp. Major artifacts always have a drawback, but their benificial powers are much stronger. They have a value of 30000gp. There are 15 minor and 15 major artifacts -- some of these artifacts are placed at specific locations; others are randomly generated.
Table of Contents.